Like timing belts, timing chains drive a car’s camshaft. Stronger than their counterparts, timing chains are practically restore-free with no definitive alternative schedule. In case your Toyota Corolla produces a vociferous rattle everytime you speed up, likelihood is it is time to verify and substitute your timing chain. Think about altering your water pump at the identical time since you need to disconnect it anyway.
Toyota Corolla Replace the Timing Chain Instructions
Verify your owner’s guide for the advisable mileage for changing your timing chain. Alternative advice for a Toyota Corolla is 60,000 miles. Find the timing chain. Replace it there may be injury to the automated chain adjuster (also called the tensioner.) Deplete the cooling system. Disengage the negative battery cable, proper engine cowl and mount, accent drive belt, generator and tensioner, energy steering pump (sans the hoses) and the cylinder head cowl.
Remove the crankshaft pulley, angle sensor plate and the place sensor from the timing chain cowl. Take out the cowl, tensioner slipper, vibration damper and the timing and crankshaft timing sprockets. Undo the chain tensioner, water pump and the valve timing management assembly and camshaft timing sprocket. Pressure the seal from its cowl. Prolong the timing chain to its most size and measure the span of any sixteen successive hyperlinks, to not surpass four.827 inches (122.6mm).
Study the slipper and damper for put on. It shouldn’t be greater than zero.039 inch (1mm). Safe the tensioner plunger in place. Put engine oil on from the high of the consumption camshaft till it returns to 16mm. Line up the valve timing controller and the knock pin timing marks and insert the controller into the camshaft. Place the No. 1 piston to “High Useless Middle” (TDC). Place the crankshaft key at 12 o’clock. Safe the sprocket bolt to 33 foot kilos (forty five Nm). The camshafts ought to line up with the sprockets’ level marks. Tauten the chain damper bolt to ninety six inch kilos (eleven Nm).
Align the timing chain with the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets with the yellow hyperlinks. Connect the following: chain rigidity slipper, crankshaft angle sensor plate (F mark is ahead), new front cowl seal, silicone sealing for the timing chain cowl and the cowl. Reinstall the water pump. Safe the 10mm “C” bolts to eighty-inch lbs. (9 Nm); “A” bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (thirteen Nm) and the different 10mm bolts to ninety six-inch lbs. (eleven Nm). The 12mm bolts needs to be at 14 ft. lbs. (18.5 Nm). Tighten the stud bolt to 82-inch lbs. (9.3 Nm).
Reconnect the proper engine mount bracket, drive belt tensioner, crankshaft place sensor and pulley. Constrict the chain tensioner and put in a brand new tensioner with new O-rngs. Tighten the bolts to 80-inch lbs. Put the hook on the pin to take care of compression. Rotate the crankshaft to the left and take the hook out. Rotate the crankshaft to the proper till the tensioner slipper strikes previous the plunger. Line up the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the timing chain cowl. The camshaft sprockets’ timing marks needs to be going through one another. Reconnect any remaining gadgets and exchange the coolant. Begin the engine and test for leaks.
[taken from ehow.com]